Summary of Julia’s trip
I’ve been coming to Paris for 30 years and somehow it still has the ability to make me feel like I’m seeing it for the first time.
Country Visited
France
General Tips for France
- Best time to go: Any time except the coldest months – that said, January this year was unexpectedly mild and gorgeous – and August. It’s true that literally everything in Paris shuts down in August so you’ll struggle for restaurants, bars, shops. The classic city break seasons – Spring and Autumn – are perfect.
- Budget: I think Paris is one of those cities you can do on pretty much any budget. I’m strictly hotel over Airbnb but I hear there are some great apartments for rent. There’s always more affordable boutique hotel options popping up all over the city too. Then obviously, veering into Palace hotel territory is extortionate but worth it if that’s your thing.
- Getting around: On foot for 99% of the time, but I took the metro on this most recent trip for the first time in decades and it felt much safer and cleaner than I remembered.
- Do: Walk as much as possible, and pop into the Four Seasons Hotel George V just to peek at the flowers. They’re literally the best in the world.
- Don’t: Overthink the bad press – Paris has felt cleaner and safer with every recent visit.
Destinations and Tips
Paris
- Where to stay: In January, at J.K. Place Paris on the Left Bank. The design is exceptional and feels like you’re in the very chic home of someone fabulous. In September, I stayed at a boutique hotel, the Norman Paris Hôtel & Spa on Rue Balzac for the first time (sister hotel to Hotel Balzac).If I could choose, I am a die-hard Le Bristol lady and would oscillate between here and the J.K. Place every time. I always try and stay around the 8th arrondissement, but would like to try staying in Le Marais on another trip soon near Place des Vosges (one of my favourite spots in the city).
- What to do: Do NOT skip a French pharmacy. Pharmacie Monge completely lives up to the hype and you get the highest tax percentage back if you spend over €100 – well worth it. It’s HUGE. There’s no way to list all the incredible brands they carry but they have things to treat quite literally any skin, hair, health concern. You could easily while away hours in that place and get totally lost.There is nothing like French bread and butter, and there is an amazing sandwich shop where you pick your own ham and cheese (after a meticulous explanation from the very friendly staff there) called Caractère de Cochon on Rue Charlot in Le Marais. You end up building your own super sandwich and I found it to be affordable and beyond worth the money. This road is great for quick bites and Instagrammable, aesthetic coffee and sandwich shops.
La Grande Épicerie de Paris on Rue de Sèvres is not to be missed. The best for specialised incredible French produce and gifts. It’s stunning and part of Le Bon Marché so a great shopping spot not to miss. I always grab a sandwich here and then sit in a nearby park or square.
Rue de Turenne in Le Marais is excellent for vintage shopping, but I had one of the best iced coffees on this road at a café called Merlo. It definitely felt very “cool girl”, super aesthetic, minimalist, but the best thing of all was the 90s hip hop blasting. I could have sat there all day.
For highly unique gifts and souvenirs without being touristy, Merci on Boulevard Beaumarchais. Amazing!
- Overrated / skip it: On the same road, Rue Charlot, is the viral sandwich shop Chez Alain Miam. I can’t say whether it’s overrated or not as the queue was so long I didn’t even attempt it, but I do think it has fallen victim to the TikTok hype.I was also a bit overwhelmed by the TikTok coffee shop recommendations. Paris has no shortage of aesthetic coffee shops whether you’re after the grand and classic or minimalist and hipster, it just depends what you like – but the coffee itself is probably much of a muchness.
Oh, and the viral Puffy cookies. They were SO sickly and underwhelming!
- Almost missed but glad you didn’t: Another great coffee spot is the Japanese-French bakery, Niwa Paris on Rue Vaneau in the 7th arrondissement. It’s really close to La Grande Épicerie so you can easily combine the two. It does a delicious iced coffee and some really interesting different pastry types.I finally made it to Café de Flore! I can’t believe after so many years I’d never been. It’s a little dated but still a complete classic for a Club Sandwich. Pick here or the equally famed and timeless Les Deux Magots just on the other corner.
I don’t really rate shopping centres abroad but La Samaritaine is different. It’s directly next to the Cheval Blanc right on the Right Bank of the Seine, right on the river. It’s beautiful and sells so many interesting French brands.
- Food & drink: I do not ever go to Paris without having dinner at La Fontaine de Mars on Rue Saint-Dominique. I’ve lost track of how many people I’ve recommended this to. It was actually my dad who recommended it to me – if I’ve been to Paris 50 times, he’s been 500 over the years through work and knows the city inside out. It is literally Paris summed up.I’m a sucker for a good hotel bar. I think the Bar Les Ambassadeurs at Hôtel de Crillon is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.
- Places to avoid: The obvious tourist traps near the Eiffel Tower and Sacré-Cœur. The Champs-Élysées are also super dated and littered with souvenir shops. It’s really sad.
See my map on Google here
Julia’s Paris